Most people think of Colombia as riddled with drugs and unrest. Not so in Cartagena, far from the strife that plagues the country's interior. Sitting pretty on the Caribbean, Spanish-colonial walls encircle the old city. Horse-drawn carriages clippety-clop tourists down 400-year-old streets where bouquet-bangled balconies overlook cobblestone plazas, antiquated churches, and mysterious monasteries. Palacio de la Inquisition's torture-device collection fascinates those with a yen for history or morbidity. Everyone loves the Gold Museum, and there's nothing torturous about snorkeling off Islas del Rosario's coast. Nearby, the massive Castillo San Felipe has protected these treasures for centuries.