Skyscrapers and boulevards. Businesspeople in shades downing couscous and coffee. Streetside beggars and fancy cars. Not exactly images from the Bogart-Bergman movie, but traces remain in this North African coastal city. Narrow streets and whitewashed buildings pose between palms and sea in Old Medina, and buildings near Place des Nations still flaunt French-colonial whites. A modern souq, Marche Central, presents a rainbow of food; subtler colors characterize the hookahs hawked in Habbaus. Crowned with the world's tallest minaret, Mosque of Hassan is done up in dazzling marble, glass, and mosaics. The laser at the top points east towards Mecca.