Enter through the mouth of the dragon. Exit through the mouth of the tiger. Following these instructions at the Lotus Lake pagodas brings luck and prosperity. Although Kaoshiung is among the world's largest ports, ancient customs hold sway amidst the city's 11 districts. Parts of the old city wall still stand, and artisans still shape bamboo according to the old ways. Treasures fill the Jade Market, and fried cricket and snake meat are coveted in certain circles as local delicacies. A court of 480 life-sized Buddhas surrounds Taiwan's largest shrine, which stands tall atop Fokuang-Shan.