Modern resorts mingle with ancient history in this perfumed Persian Gulf port. Frankincense is everywhere. The mystical scent emanates from temple censers, open windows, and market stalls. The source--a bounty of craggy, gnarly trees--dots the landscape, their twisted shapes mimicking that of a belly dancer or sword dancer, set in motion by the breeze. On the beach, the crevasses between the rocks create intermittent blowholes that stretch along miles of coast. A small distance from town, biblical Job rests in his sacred tomb on Mount Eiteen.