Ceid mile failte--Irish for "a hundred thousand welcomes"--read signs greeting visitors all over Ireland. Hospitality runs rampant, along with good cheer despite weather that seldom sees sunshine. Gloomy skies may prevail but the mood is decidedly upbeat in Ireland's capital city, headquarters of the so-called Celtic Tiger, shorthand for the fastest growing economy in Europe. Dublin's compact size makes for easy exploration on foot. What better way to hit the haunts of the city's literary sons? The favorite pubs of James Joyce, Samuel Beckett, and George Bernard Shaw are open for business, pouring fine pints of "the black stuff" (Guinness, of course).