Cruise Ship Review

It took until the final version of Holland America's Vista-ship building program for me to make it onto a Vista-class vessel. I thought I had educated myself, but after sailing on both Statendam-class and Rotterdam-class ships, I was totally unprepared for the size of Noordam. In fact, I was totally unprepared for most of the changes in this new generation of ships, and I was somewhat surprised at my reaction.

When it began its ambitious new-build program with Zuiderdam, launched in 2002, the line had a lofty goal: Expand beyond its appeal to (mostly) very senior citizens. Bring in family groups. Create a bridge between the seniors, its stalwart and consistent passenger base, and the youngsters who would soon be purchasing cruise vacations of their own. With expanded Club HAL facilities for youngsters, the addition of its hugely successful Loft Teen Clubs, and a large percentage of staterooms fitted with balconies, the Vista-class ships ushered Holland America Line into the 21st century with aplomb.

The Culinary Arts Center (taking the place of the Wajang Theatre -- movies are still played there) and the Explorations Cafe (replacing the Windjammer Lounge, Coffee Bar and the library) might be the biggest changes onboard but they are certainly not the only ones.

I am, admittedly, on the younger end of HAL's traditional senior passenger base, but like most of HAL's older passengers, I am somewhat averse to change. Stepping onto Noordam presented me with a culture shock that took a few days to overcome. The size of the ship and its layout -- compared to Holland America's "classic" ships with their more linear passageways -- had me bufuddled; there are new elementsa jazzy style, open spaces and twisty corridors absent from HAL's other ships. Almost nothing in the physical configuration of the vessel felt familiar.

With apologies to the late, lamented Oldsmobile, "This ain't your daddy's Holland America."

Happily, for me, the staff and crew were decidedly "old school," as accommodating and genuinely caring as they are on any Holland America ship. I occasionally walk with a cane ... and when I had it with me in the Lido Cafe, I didn't have to worry about carrying my tray with one hand because a smiling steward -- always -- took it from me and carried it, through the line and to whatever table I chose. A question I asked at the front desk was handled with professional, hospitable grace. And, on this larger ship, although I may have felt like I was walking miles to get from point A to point B, at least my hikes were punctuated with smiles and cheerful greetings, often -- per HAL's tradition -- by name.

I might prefer HAL's older, smaller, more classic ships, but in the end the overall enjoyment of any cruise vacation depends more on the total experience than on the ship's layout. I was treated like an old friend and pampered by my room steward. I dined in elegance and took advantage of the modern amenities (like the Wi-Fi Internet and DVD players) available on Noordam. I watched culinary demonstrations, listened to music in the Explorer's Cafe and made new friends. Noordam might be big and modern, but it is, after all, one of those "dam" ships, and I was sad to leave when the cruise ended.

Dining

Of the three restaurants onboard, the Lido Cafe definitely gets the most use -- and deserves the most praise. Stretching from the aft elevators to beyond the midship mark, with the food stations in the center and the tables alongside the windows, it's an elegant space. Although there are now "stations" for specific items, they're not entirely independent. The sandwiches, Asian food, desserts and pizza/pasta are somewhat separate and you can go directly to those areas, but there is one central food preparation area and one line. The salad station is the only spot that's truly buffet style.

The Lido Cafe seems enormous. Why, then, we wondered, was it almost always crowded and difficult to navigate? The passageways between the food stations and tables seem impossibly narrow, and at those times when it's busy, getting through and around the crowds can be daunting.

Calmer and more attractive are the evenings, when a casual dinner is served at white-linen, candlelit tables to those who choose to avoid the main dining room. It's the same cuisine with a slightly more limited menu, but you are served by waiters just as you would be in the dining room. You can dress more casually and you can choose your dining time (between 5:30 and 9 p.m.).

While the Lido Cafe appears huge, the two-level Vista Dining Room seems almost cozy in comparison. Dining times are set at four seatings, using the upper and lower levels to divide them: 5:30, 6, 8:00 and 8:30.

The food in the Vista Dining room was the best we've had on any Holland America ship to date: There were lots of choices and food was well-prepared, fresh, and flavorful. On a couple of nights it was nearly impossible to decide between entrees. They all seemed so appealing, and when they arrived they were just as good as they sounded. None of the menu items were new or unique to Noordam, but the preparation was wonderful. And while nothing we had was over-salted, nothing we had was bland, either -- something that has been an issue on other Holland America ships.

Dining in the main restaurant on a Holland America ship is a traditional, elegant, classy affair, and it was no different on Noordam. The night of the Captain's Grand Gala saw crisp white slipcovers on all the chairs and candles on each table. Service was excellent, with the table teams trained to remember your preferences after just one meal. I had San Pellegrino water poured for me each night and a (complimentary at dinnertime) cappuccino placed before me after each meal without ever having to repeat my first request. With advance notice, Holland America can easily meet Vegetarian, Kosher, low-sodium and other dietary needs. Breakfast and lunch is open-seating; service tends to be slower than at supper, but the ambiance is certainly more elegant than that of the Lido Cafe.

Holland America's Pinnacle Grill, the sole for-charge alternative restaurant, is located in the middle of the ship and surrounds the atrium. The menu features Pacific Northwest U.S. cuisine to highlight Holland America's Seattle roots, and while planked salmon is one of the specialties, most people order the fabulous, melt-in-your-mouth filet mignon, which comes in both petite and regular sizes. (Though the "petite" is plenty big, we found.)

Room service is excellent on Noordam, whether it's a full meal from the menu at lunch or dinner, or a hot breakfast delivered right on time. For some reason, though, the servers are forced to carry enormous trays -- which realistically measure two feet by three feet -- even when you order a pot of coffee and two cups.

On the starboard side of the Lido Deck midship pool is a burger and hot dog stand, with nachos, tacos and fixins too, available from 11:00 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. There are themed midnight snacks offered in the Lido Cafe every night, and the Dessert Extravaganza on one of the nights; bring a camera and arrive early.

Public Rooms

Noordam, more than any of the other Vista-class ships, has incorporated the new Signature of Excellence program into its very design. The names of some of the public rooms might be the same as on other HAL vessels, but the architecture is totally different.

The throbbing pulse of the entire ship is the Explorations Cafe, "powered by the New York Times," located on the Upper Promenade Deck. This sprawling space incorporates a library, Internet center, coffee bar, music listening venue and meeting place in one location. Leather chaises with earphones, tables with reusable New York Times crossword puzzles laminated under layers of epoxy, Internet stations at roundelays, and books, books, and more books define this space as the indoor hangout for folks of all ages. The coffee bar charges for cappuccinos and lattes, but the reasonable price is worth it (about $2.50 for a specialty coffee) and the pastries are thrown in for free.

Another space in which from and function meet is The Queen's Lounge and Culinary Arts Center. The room takes the place of what used to be the Wajang Theatre, and while free popcorn is still served during the movies that play here, the changes are special. The entire front end now looks like a set from the Food Network, and Holland America has teamed up with Food and Wine Magazine to host 60 "celebrity chefs" per year on all of their ships.

Noordam is filled with millions of dollars worth of original artwork, not all of it behind glass. There seems to be a large percentage of Asian art and sculpture, but other forms and cultures are represented as well. During my cruise, a photographer was documenting each piece. On future sailings the photos and commentary will be available for special, self-guided iPod tours. What a fabulous idea!

Most of the bars and lounges are located on the Promenade Decks. On the Lower Promenade, there's Northern Nights Nightclub (funky, but way too small for the crowd it attracts), the Sports Bar, the Piano Bar (fab and well-attended), the Pinnacle Bar near the atrium, and of course the after-dinner favorite, the Explorer's Lounge with its classical trio or quartet playing nightly. The only smoking allowed on this deck is in the casino and adjoining Sports Bar.

The Ocean Bar is located on the Promenade Deck, and spans the area surrounding the atrium. This is a great mid-ship stop before or after supper, with a jazz quartet and small dance floor.

Both daytime (for the views) and nighttime (for the dancing) make the Crow's Nest -- situated forward and atop the ship -- a favorite for folks of all ages. Surrounded with floor-to-ceiling windows, this is a perfect place to see where you're heading, especially just before arriving in port.

Lastly, the huge gyroscope that hangs over the atrium and the deco-style ceiling that surrounds it are both stunning, and fitting for a ship of this caliber.

Cabins

When the Vista-class ships were first conceptualized, cruise guests were clamoring for balconies. On Holland America's Statendam-class and Rotterdam-class ships, the only verandahs available are in what the line calls "verandah suites," but those accommodations (with the exception of the small whirlpool tub they each have) are now closer to most modern cruise ship standard balcony cabins, and they are the first to sell out on any given itinerary.

As in all Vista-class ships, Noordam has plenty of balcony cabins in many configurations, ranging from standard staterooms with verandah to uber-elegant penthouse suites. In fact, of the six passenger cabin decks, only one, Main Deck, has no balconies at all.

Holland America used to boast the largest standard staterooms at sea. Alas, that boast has gone the way of the free cappuccinos previously offered ... in other words, the rooms are not as spacious on the Vistas as they are on the other classes. Although there is plenty of hanging space and shelving in the closet, the only drawers in the cabins are in the low nightstands and an oddly placed drawer under the foot of the bed.

The desk/vanity area was the most surprising to me. Holland America was a virtual pioneer in "connectivity at sea," so the line is fully aware that people travel with all manner of electronic gear. Kids will bring their iPods and docks, parents bring their video recorders, all ages are likely to have a PDA or laptop, digital camera, cell phone charger, and so on. The desk, though, seems like an afterthought, perched at one end over the mini-bar and a teeny cupboard at the other. It's meant to be used as a grooming station since the hair dryer is housed in the little cupboard, but there's very little space for anything on the desk at all. I found myself constantly jockeying for laptop space. On Noordam, the LCD televisions hang in the corner above the desk, freeing up some of the space that's used ships with CRT televisions.

The new Eurotop beds are extremely comfortable. The ribbon-cut cotton sheets are pretty and elegant. Suite guests get duvets; standard-room guests get a double-sheeted blanket. All guests get the use of the cotton waffle-weave robe with terry-cloth inside, and I saw many walking around with them on the Lido Deck because they are so comfy.

It saddened me to see the pre-molded bathrooms in the standard cabins; I missed the coral-pink tile of the line's older ships. The future is now, though, so I just have to adapt. Standard cabins still have Holland America's signature bathtub/shower combo. The bathroom size is adequate, with a small sink/vanity area. Lighting is murky.

Suite guests get more perks; those in Deluxe Verandah Suites and above get a butler and use of the Neptune Lounge, a private concierge club with all-day munchies and complimentary cappuccinos and lattes. Suite guests can also take their breakfast in the Pinnacle Grill if they desire, although we saw few in there in the mornings.

The two penthouse suites, over 1,300 square ft. each, have gorgeous teak-lined balconies and private hot tubs.

Entertainment

By far the best offerings on Noordam are the cooking demonstrations in the new Culinary Arts Center. Several times per week there are sessions highlighting the preparation of some delectable treat or another, whether it's a main course, appetizer, or dessert. On those voyages with a guest chef on board, there are more demonstrations, using that chef's specialties as the featured recipes.

The Vista Lounge is a modern marvel, boasting a one piece, $80,000 LCD backdrop. Although the shows here are fairly average shipboard fare, the sophisticated design allows for more pizzazz, some pyrotechnics, some animation, and things like balloons and confetti falling from above. Sight lines are excellent except for certain spots in the back corners, where large pillars can be obstructive.

Holland America is well known for its low-key and fabulous lounge performers, and Noordam carries the tradition with flying colors. You can just about choose anything you want, from the peaceful strains of the classical quartet in the Explorer's Lounge to the light jazz in the Ocean Bar or the torch songs in the Piano Bar. Northern Nights Nightclub gets the younger blood flowing with disco, karaoke, and other theme parties, and you can dance under the moonlight in the Crow's Nest.

The casino isn't very big, but it's lively, with several blackjack and poker tables, a full-sized craps table, a roulette wheel, and banks of slots. Oddly, I saw the nickel and penny video slots getting the most play, and paying off the most, too.

During the day, the cruise staff has devised some boisterous participation activities, and while they aren't quite as outrageous as those on some other ships, they are a departure from Holland America's usual low-key offerings. Hairy legs contests are now part of Noordam's schedule.

One of our favorite Holland America activities is the ship-building contest, in which entrants scrounge around for materials to build a ship over the course of the sailing. Items might include styrofoam cups, cardboard boxes, and any number of other materials -- we saw a ship made with orange peels! Near the end of the cruise, the vessels are put into one of the pools, judged, and the builders receive prizes.

On the Observation Deck is a smallish video arcade. Here you can usually find the teens who aren't in The Loft.

Fitness & Recreation

The forward-facing fitness room, with its new high-tech treadmill, stair-step and weight machines, is attractive and rarely crowded.

The Greenhouse Spa, which fronts the fitness area, is large and well-equipped with treatment rooms, a thermal suite, beauty salon and thelassotherapy pool. The spa, however, is awkwardly situated at the forward end of the Lido Deck. You have to transverse the spa reception to get to the forward elevators. We rarely saw anyone using the thelassotherapy pool; this might be because the cost to use both the pool and the "thermal suite," with steam showers, heated tile chaises and a sauna, topped $350 per cruise. The thermal pool alone was $180, fairly steep considering that the non-enclosed hot tubs just outside were free to use.

Yoga and pilates classes are available for a fee. Steiner Leisure, which runs the spa, offers a full range of treatments, with discounts offered on shore days. Teeth whitening is the hottest new promotion.

The central pool in the Lido area is gorgeous, anchored on one end by a dancing dolphin sculpture and surrounded by three generous-sized hot tubs. It's under the sliding magradome so can be used in all weather conditions. Plenty of comfy chaises surround the pool; tables and chairs surround the outer edges. This central pool is open to families and often gets quite active if there are a lot of children onboard.

The aft pool is fabulous in good weather, partly because Holland has added 27 feet of aft decking and large canvas shade areas on each side. Very quiet (and adults-only), camping by the aft pool in the sunshine is like taking a separate vacation.

We love the fact that the promenade deck makes a full circuit of the ship. Holland America's signature teak loungers are available here too, and since it's usually quiet, this is a great place to take a book and just relax.

There's a volleyball court and basketball court on the Sports Deck.

Family

Holland America is aiming to attract families, and Noordam appears up to the task. Its teen and children's clubs are active and busy, and there seems to be plenty to occupy the youngsters. It was heartwarming to watch kids play cards with their grandparents or do puzzles in the Explorer's Cafe. When the weather isn't terrific, there are always those DVD rentals.

The Loft, with its Jetson's-like appearance, silvery walls and posts and '60s-style bucket chairs, provides teens with a perfect parent-free zone. Kids between the ages of 13 and 17 are welcome.

Club Hal is primary-color bright, and is permanently staffed by childcare professionals. Potty-trained children between the ages of 3 and 12 are nicely accommodated with age-appropriate activities.

Fellow Passengers

Even on the Vista-class ships, designed for multi-generational family groups, the bulk of the guests tend to be loyal HAL Mariners and those over 60 years old. It was Spring Break during my Noordam cruise, and while there were 200 children onboard, there would have been more had the cruise been seven rather than 10 days.

Most of Noordam's guests are HAL repeaters; sophisticated, well-educated, well-heeled, and traditional. They look for the little hallmarks that make them know, for certain, that they are on one of Holland America's "dam" ships, and despite its size, they find those hallmarks on Noordam.

Dress Code

During the day, casual attire rules. In the evenings, resort casual is acceptable throughout the ship. There are two formal nights on a seven-day cruise and three on a 10- to 14-day cruise. People love to dress up on these traditional ships, so formal night sees lots of tuxes and beaded gowns.

Shorts, tank tops and swimsuits are not allowed in the Vista Dining Room at any time; jeans are not allowed at dinner time.

Gratuities

Holland America charges $10 per day per adult ($5 for children under 12) to the guest's shipboard account to cover gratuities. This amount can be adjusted upward or downward, or eliminated altogether if you prefer to tip in cash.

A 15 percent gratuity is added to bar bills and spa services. Most people tip their room service deliveries in cash, and almost everyone offers cash at the end of their cruise to their dining room team and room steward, above and beyond the $10 automatic gratuity.

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